Author: J Kent Erickson

How can I make my leather shoes last longer?

I received this question from a reader: How can I make my leather shoes last longer? This is what I shared with them: Store them on shoe trees. This prevents permanent creasing or cracking where they bend as you walk and prevents curling in the toe of the shoe. Aromatic cedar shoe trees help shoes retain their shape while removing moisture and odor from shoes. Let them rest for a day between each wearing, to dry out from natural foot perspiration. Use a shoehorn when putting them on and untie the laces when removing them, to avoid damaging the back of the shoe. Protect your shoes from the elements with conditioners and a good polish. After a rain, let shoes dry in a warm place away from direct heat, either on shoe trees or stuffed with paper towels....

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Three signs of a Gentleman

Many people have compiled lists of the signs that distinguish a gentleman. Some lists include useful concepts, while others simply contain the author's personal preferences. We have found that there are three essential qualities that show a man to be a true gentleman-no matter what his individual style preferences may be. Mindfulness: He is considerate of others' needs. Without letting others have their own way at his expense, he shows chivalry and courtesy to his fellow beings. In business situations, he actively thinks of how best to accommodate everyone's goals and create win-win situations. Dignity: He maintains his good manners even in difficult situations. He learns how to maintain his aplomb when others can't, and is never boorish in social situations. Impeccably dressed: His attire demonstrates self-confidence and an understanding of his own value in society. By choosing to wear high-quality clothing that fits him perfectly and lasts for years, he shows that...

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CLASSIC PRODUCTS WORTH OWNING TODAY

Products come and go in this age of innovation, but a few men's essentials have stood the test of time to become timeless classics. Here are a few old-fashioned items worth owning in the digital age. A clothes brush: Your suit coats will last longer when the dust and lint are removed regularly. Braces (suspenders): Fitted properly, braces comfortably replace the belt's cinching strain on the waistband. Wood hangers: High-quality hangers that are shaped to mimic your shoulders support the drape of your coats. Custom-tailored clothing: Throughout history, the nobility, political leaders, and even movie stars have tailored their clothing to support their identity and standing in the world. Bow ties: If you're on the formal side, keep one black and one white on hand for formal occasions. Pocket squares: An elegant splash of silk or linen in the breast pocket adds instant panache to an ensemble. ...

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COLLAR YOUR STYLE

Need a quick refresher on the various types of collar options for your next custom shirt? Straight collar: A neutral, all-around good choice that works for nearly every gentleman. Button-down: A classy-yet-casual option that keeps the collar secured in place. Can be worn without a tie, with the top button unbuttoned. Spread collar: A powerful look that can be created at several angles (medium spread, wide spread). It allows plenty of room for a large, powerful tie knot. The widest spread is called a cutaway collar. Club collar (rounded): There's a hint of the English about this unique look. Eyelet collar (for a collar pin): The tiny openings allow for placement of a collar pin. This look is dressy, elegant, distinguished, and quite unusual. Tab collar: A hidden tab behind the tie keeps the collar in place without visible buttons. Band collar: The collar doesn't have a strip of fabric that folds over the tie. This is a casual look that should never be...

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Can I wear a striped tie with a striped shirt?

I received this question from a reader: Can I wear a striped tie with a striped shirt? What about with a striped suit? This is what I shared with them: While some would say, “Enough already with the stripes,” if you’re the adventurous type you could pull off a look that works if you follow some simple guidelines. First, when it comes to lining up the stripes, a little goes a long way. Next, keep the color palettes in the same family. Finally, watch the size and scale of the pattern, being certain to vary the scale, like wide with narrow. Wear wide stripe tie with a narrow spaced striped shirt or narrow spaced striped shirt with wider spaced striped suits. You have to feel comfortable with what you’re wearing, of course, so if stripes-on-stripes isn’t your thing, stick to convention. Dressing well should be a fun form of creative self-expression, so break...

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Using an Underrated Color: Incorporating Yellow into a Gentleman’s Wardrobe

Yellow includes a range of hues, from butter to gold, from cream to tan. Many gentlemen shy away from this color because they’re not accustomed to wearing it, but if worn well, it can contribute to a stunning ensemble. Make sure the intensity of the yellow matches the intensity of the color it’s paired with. A rich gold works well with charcoal gray or navy blue, while pastel yellows work best with lighter coordinating colors, such as silver or sky blue. You may decide to choose yellows appropriate for each of the seasons: spring calls for pastels; summer embodies vivid tones; fall yellows are more amber or golden and can be paired with browns or a rich tan; winter attire can be refreshed by pure yellows paired with black, white, or burgundy. If you are unsure how to incorporate yellow into your wardrobe, start with a yellow tie—it’s the perfect way to try...

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TWO SUITS, SIX SHIRTS

Let's talk efficiency. Building your custom wardrobe is an investment, and you likely want to maximize the value of that investment while controlling outlay. The key here is to start with a solid base: two custom suits and six custom shirts. With this base, you have the start of a wardrobe that is built to last-and built to look and feel fantastic, every day. Make sure your two suits and six shirts are designed in versatile colors and fabrics that will be appropriate in a multitude of occasions. Add carefully chosen accessories for individual style, and you have a versatile wardrobe that will fit better and let you move more comfortably than any other suits you've worn....

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Made to Be Untucked

You've seen men wearing their shirts untucked. If you want to enjoy this current trend (often called "the outside shirt" since the shirt is designed for the tail to be worn outside trousers), you need to have your custom shirts constructed specifically for that use, because a traditional-cut shirt worn untucked has an unfortunate tendency to flair like a bell at the hips. Here's how we'll build your outside shirts: We make sure the length is just right to create the correct silhouette for your body type to wear these shirts. We adjust the proportions for the finished dimensions between chest, waist, and hip measurements, to give it a flattering drape on your frame. We hem the shirt so that the tail ends in the bottom half of the trouser fly area to achieve the correct visual proportions. The outside shirt is a great option for a casual shirt that's still appropriate...

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Where to the best fabrics come from?

I received this question from a reader: Where do the best fabrics come from? This is what I shared with them: Traditionally, the fabrics made in Italy are known for their quality in raw materials and workmanship. We carry many of these select Italian fabrics. We also carry fabrics made in England and other locations devoted to quality textile construction—each has been chosen to join our fabric selection based on quality of threads, dyes, and weave. High-quality fabrics last longer and wear better than those made to lower standards. Off-the-rack clothing is often designed to be worn for a year or two at most, so quality isn’t always paramount to the makers. We insist on first-class fabrics to ensure your custom clothing is wearable for years to come.  ...

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Falling in Love with New Fabric Options

The new fall fabrics are now available, and they include fibers with earthy, touchable appeal. The current trends are for fabrics with a “rural” or “raw” feel to the fabric finish. Look for textiles with earthy textures inspired by the natural world. These include fabrics with irregular weave patterns or multiple textures. Some options have a “grainy” feel to the fibers, which adds a rustic texture perfect for the natural changes taking place during autumn. Bamboo fabrics are gaining in prominence. These natural fibers are pliable and breathable, yet durable and long-wearing. Plaids are large-scaled, with an open feel to the spacing. Look for rustic check patterns, such as variations on Burberry-type plaids. Many fall offerings are indulging in a dusty color palette of pastels with a nature-based look. Whether you’re looking to freshen your autumn wardrobe by selecting several new ties, creating your next custom suit, or designing personalized shirts, this season’s...

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