STYLEguide

Get more mileage out of your wardrobe with a perfectly tailored blue blazer. As the economy looks up and colors lighten across the fashion industry, traditional navy blazers are joined by brighter shades of blue, giving a modern twist to a timeless classic. Look for tones ranging from inky, saturated blues to more subtle gray-blues in this versatile jacket.

The season’s fresh colors still retain the mix-and-match appeal that makes a blue blazer a wardrobe staple for the well-dressed gentleman. Blue will coordinate easily with almost any trouser color, from cream to brown and from khaki to gray. The neutral blazer also allows a myriad of shoe color options. Consider rich browns and deep burgundies for your leather shoes to add warmth to your ensemble.

You can take advantage of the blazer’s ability to support almost any colors by pairing it with a variety of stylish combinations of high-quality shirts and ties. Whether you prefer the strength of a power tie, relaxed earthy shades, or a lighthearted set of colors for your ties, your trusted blue blazer helps put the look together.

Dashing when paired with light colors, or understated when coordinated with dark ones: the perennial favorite blue blazer is an updated choice this fall.

Vests can be excellent mix-and-match wardrobe pieces. Rather than limiting their use to the three-piece suit, use vests as coordinating pieces for sport coats and trousers. Consider having vests personalized to your taste—lapels, pockets, fabric, and fit can all be custom-crafted to create timeless pieces that will give you extra options with your existing shirts, trousers, and coats.

Traditionally, vests are made of the same fabric as a jacket or trousers. They can also draw on contrasting colors, or simply use a base color from the jacket or trousers. When creating combinations, keep fabric choices (tweed, silk, cotton, wool) similar enough to avoid an awkward pairing.

Looking your best doesn’t end with Friday rush-hour traffic. Even when you’re not working, your clothing choices reflect the same sense of personal style and confidence that makes your business attire remarkable. Whether you’re enjoying a dinner party or a night out with the guys, your casual-wear wardrobe sets the tone.

• Dress for the venue—A downtown hotspot requires a little more glam than video night at your best friend’s place.
• Avoid baggy or too-tight items—Your clothing should fit well, and offer just enough room to move comfortably.
• Choose dark blue jeans (not light or black)—Avoid extraneous embellishment or faded areas.
• Step it up from tees—A well-tailored shirt shows off your unique style.
• Shoes still matter—Scuffed, faded shoes take away from any look.
• Limit your ensemble to two or three colors—Any more than that looks garish.
• When in doubt, go black and white—Nothing beats that timeless contrast.

When your business clothing is supplemented with stylish mix-and-match casual wear, you can dress elegantly for any occasion.

Received this question from a follower: How do I choose a shirt color?

Here’s what I shared with them: Choosing a shirt is not as simple as picking your favorite color; colors communicate different things to those around you. Let’s start with the basics. Crisp, clean white shirts convey the most power and authority. Blue shirts come next, and work well with almost any suit color. Other solid colors are appropriate for all but the most formal occasions, while stripes and checks work well in most day-to-day situations. “Warm” colors such as red or yellow are more casual than “cool” colors.

Choosing clothes that complement your skin coloring doesn’t have to be stressful—it just takes a small investment of time and energy. You can start making great color combinations by using just a few simple steps to make educated choices.

Whenever possible, view potential clothing purchases in natural light, usually through a window. The fluorescent lighting in most offices can distort a fabric’s true color.

Gather shirt swatches in several shades of the same color. Hold them up under your chin while you look at yourself in a mirror. When a shirt makes you look either worn out or discolored, set that item aside. If you’re not sure how a color makes your skin look, listen to your instinct about whether you like or dislike the color. We tend to like tones that look good on us.

When you find several selections that make your skin look healthy and robust, group them together. Once you’ve tested several color families, you’ll find that most of your chosen fabrics, whether light or dark tones, fall into one of four seasonal “families.”

Spring colors are fresh and fun with tones like pale blue, light green, and yellow. Summer colors are brighter and more whimsical with hues in warm reds, steel blue, and medium greens or purples. Autumn runs to golden browns, brick red, and olive green. Winter contains rich, saturated shades like burgundy, navy, and dark green.

Once you’ve discovered your best colors, build a wardrobe around what looks great on you—and makes you look great while wearing it.

Many businessmen hesitate to choose checked shirts, keeping to the more traditional solids and stripes. However, with foresight, there is no need to avoid this wardrobe-extending choice.

When choosing a checked shirt, the choice of tie pattern can be critical. The tie’s print, whether solid, striped, or patterned, should complement the shirt print by offering a visual change of pace. Pairing similar patterns, whether both are large or both small, in tie and shirt can create a feeling of heaviness. Instead, try out combinations with alternating patterns. Tightly-checked shirts require a larger tie pattern, while large checks can support a small, busier print.

Colors can be similarly brought into balance. Rather than limiting your choices to single shades of colors, harmonize the tones. The “seasonal” color scheme may help you decide if a certain red or blue is compatible with your shirt and suit tones, as fall or summer colors naturally complement each other.

A bold shirt, paired with a strong tie, may offer too much visual competition. Rather than pairing warring elements, balance a prominent item with a less pronounced one to allow one piece to create the eye’s focal point.

When choosing ties, try pairing several of them with the shirt, moving them into and out of place quickly to see how your eye reacts. After considering several options, you’ll likely get a feel for which options create a pleasing combination.

Keeping in mind principles of scale, color, and balance can help check shirts become a valuable source of variety in your wardrobe.

Received this question from a follower: What is the rule on sock color?

Here’s what I shared with them: Socks, when visible, act as an extension of the trouser leg. Choose socks in a shade that blends well with your suit fabric.

Matching suit to sock eliminates calling attention to the ankle in those moments when the trousers’ movement reveals the sock, such as when sitting or walking briskly. Trousers should be cut long enough to cover socks at all other times.

The blustery days of spring turn into a distant memory when the weather warms up. And your warm winter suit, so helpful a few months ago, can soon seem too heavy to wear.

Keep your cool this summer—without losing your professional look—by crafting a summer wardrobe with style. Your tools? Summer-worthy fabrics in wool, linen, silk, and cotton.

Wool can still be your wardrobe’s best friend during the sun-friendly months. Simply keep to lightweight versions (look for tropical or summer weight fabrics) to retain the breathability of wool’s natural fibers without the warmth of the winter weights.

Linen fabrics offer a looser weave than wool, which lets air circulate to keep you cool without compromising style by dressing down. Minimize your linen suit’s wrinkles by tailoring the fit to your shape. Baggy trousers and an oversized coat will wrinkle more than a suit that moves with you.

Silks and silk blends drape beautifully and give your suit a fine shimmer—perfect for dressier settings. Fabrics blending silk and fine wool give the flexibility and lightweight feel of silk, with the shape and substance of wool.

Cotton fabrics work well for business casual attire. Paired with an oxford shirt, cotton suit fabrics offer relaxed comfort during the hottest weather.

Finely tailored clothing ensures that you look your best during the warmest months, whether in your favorite linen jacket and trousers or your summer-weight wool suit.

We’ve all heard the phrase, “the devil is in the details.” It’s true that the details—whether in business dealings or business attire—can make the difference between success and failure.

Most businessmen wouldn’t dream of presenting a business proposal without careful attention to the details. Applying that same level of care to a business wardrobe is just as important. The niceties of a suit can create the impression of success or failure, competence or irresponsibility, strength or weakness.

We can help you craft a suit that conveys the impression most suitable to your needs. The choices on details are seldom “right” or “wrong,” but rather points on a sliding scale. For example, using a Windsor half-knot on your tie looks heavier than the trimmer four-in-hand knot. Cutting squared suit shoulders creates a more solid look than the closely fitted silhouette.

Your custom-tailored suit is shaped not just to fit your measurements, but to create the visual impression that bests suits your business image.

Fashion fads come and go. Lapels and collars may widen or narrow, fabrics may trend toward light or dark, and trouser hemlines can change course over time. Rather than chase after short-lived concepts, the savvy businessman customizes his suits for his build, sense of personal style, and business habits. This allows his wardrobe to weather the seasonal swings of fashion, and remain in style.

Any particular tailoring decision, no matter how popular, may not be the most flattering to one’s frame. When choosing your suit’s silhouette, we can help you choose a timeless, classic look which will last for years, maximizing your wardrobe investment.

Consider your personal sense of style when fitting a suit: double-breasted suits are generally dressier than their single-breasted counterparts. Coats without a vent are sleeker.

Fabric selection should follow your wearing needs. If you travel frequently in your suits, be sure to select heavy-wearing fabrics. A suit for occasional use can be made of lighter, dressier fabrics.

Keep your wardrobe long-lasting and effective by crafting a suit customized to your needs, not the momentary fads. A fine suit, tailored to your frame and preferences, is enduring.