Hems Tag

Seams: Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Sewn

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between hand-sewn and machine-sewn seams? This is what I shared with them: Hand-sewn seams are created by a single thread running through fabric like a wave. Done right, they lay smooth and do not pucker. Hand-sewn seams handle stretching well, and spring back into place after movement. Hand stitching is advantageous in curved areas like armholes, collars, and waistbands. Machine-sewn seams use two threads crossing over each other through the fabric. They are sturdy and more precise than hand-sewn seams, but the extra tension created by having two threads pulling in opposition can lead to puckers in the fabric on curves. Machine stitching is advantageous in straight-seam areas like trouser legs, where it can be more durable and cleaner than hand stitching....

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Cuffed Hems vs. Plain Hems

I received this question from a reader: How do I choose between cuffed and plain hems on trousers? This is what I shared with them: Cuffed hems add weight and importance to the gentleman’s trousers. Their function during movement is to cover the sock and continue the trouser’s crease. Cuffs create a dressier look, so can be reserved for suit pants, except tuxedos. More casual fabrics, such as twills, poplins, or corduroys can be worn without cuffs. These fabrics do not demand a heavier hem, and are easily weighed down by unnecessary fabric. Clothing that is dress casual or business casual can be worn without cuffs....

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