Personal Style Tag

Custom Guidance from Your Custom Clothier

Each gentleman has his own circumstances, goals, and individual style. Our aim, as a custom clothier, is to enable each of our clients to create a wardrobe that will work hard to help him meet his goals and express his unique taste. To accomplish that, we work hard during your consultations to ensure you consider several important factors. Throughout our conversations we will help you to discover whether you prefer Italian, English, or American style sensibilities, as that will usually inform your tailoring choices. We’ll also discuss which custom items are your current priority. For some gentlemen, it could be suits, while others need to focus on trousers, coats, shirts, or a focal point item, such as an “odd vest.” When you set your budget, we can help you consider how long each type of custom clothing tends to last, as well as how many of that item category you’ll need. We are...

Read More

The Possibilities of Sport Jackets

Sport jackets provide an excellent opportunity to showcase your personal style. When you’re designing your next custom sport coat, take time to consider a wide range of stylistic options, and you’ll create a sport coat that you love. Custom clothing should be a joy to wear. It not only will fit perfectly but also can give you an emotional lift each time you wear it. For your next sport coat, consider light colors and bold patterns as well as the typical tans and blues. Brightening up your clothing can easily brighten up your mood. Selecting a pastel plaid fabric for the jacket makes an eye-catching statement, especially if you choose one with several colors in the plaid. Keep to colors in the same color family if you’re looking to tone down the visual effect. Sport jackets are great for weekends and events that call for style without the formality of a full suit....

Read More

Considering the Navy Blazer

Navy blazers are some of our favorite wardrobe pieces, because they are almost endlessly versatile. They’re equally appropriate for social events and for business-casual days. To create a dressy look, pair your blazer with tan, olive, or gray trousers. A range of gray tones, from silver to charcoal, will look great with your navy blazer. Tan trousers can likewise work for several shades, from beige to tobacco. To create a less formal—but still stylish—look, wear them with dark jeans and a crisp white shirt; skip the tie and unbutton your collar. When designing your custom navy blazer, you can select traditional brass buttons, or choose from among a range of brown or gray horn buttons. Even though you’re building the blazer in a traditional navy color, the fabric doesn’t have to be boring—you can easily customize your blazer by selecting a fabric with rich texture. This attention to design detail will create a...

Read More

Play To Your Strong Suit

When you play to win in a card game, you use the cards in your strongest suit. When you play to win in business, you wear the strongest suit in your wardrobe. Custom clothing gives you the ability to design a suit that plays to your strengths and minimizes any irregularities in shape or proportion. You have the power to create exactly the image you desire, and can build your clothing to meet all your individual requirements, even if you are not proportioned like the average gentleman. Whether you're aiming for an approachable, casual suit, or a somber, more formal suit, custom clothing gives you the powerful image you need-because you always play to win....

Read More

Types of Shirt Plackets

Designing your personal style means paying attention to details. Have you considered the style potential of choosing between the various options for shirt placket design? (That's the strip of fabric that holds the buttons.) Front placket-found in the vast majority of dress shirts. Always a good option for business attire, but its ubiquity means it lacks individuality. No front placket-also called a French front, this placket has no visual stitching alongside the row of buttons, so it creates clean lines but can be trickier to iron. Covered placket-commonly called a fly front, the covered placket has an additional layer of fabric covering the buttons. It's sometimes found in tuxedo shirts and other very dressy clothing. Tuxedo front-looks similar to the French front but differs in that the top four buttons are removable, allowing you to replace the buttons with tuxedo studs. This placket is best used only with tuxedo shirts. The...

Read More

Odd Vests

There’s nothing odd about odd vests! The phrase simply refers to wearing a vest outside of a three-piece-suit ensemble—a great strategy for adding visual appeal and stretching your clothing budget by increasing the number of mix-and-match options in your wardrobe. Light-colored vests, such as sand or dove gray, look fantastic under a suit. You may choose to build your vest of the same material as your trousers or sport jacket, or instead select a coordinating fabric. The back of the vest is often constructed of thin lining fabrics to avoid adding bulk and heat. Wearing matching trousers and vest with a contrasting coat makes a striking ensemble. The vest should be long enough to cover your waistband. Braces are a good choice with a vest, as a belt will push the vest fabric away from your waist, creating the appearance of thickness. The armholes of your vest should be large, to allow...

Read More

Raising the Bar: The Collar Pin

You already know that paying attention to your accessories sets you apart from the crowd. One accoutrement that quickly gives an air of elegance to an ensemble is a collar pin. This refined tool gives the knot in your tie more visual importance and stability. It’s perfect for days when you want to look your best—and want the confidence that comes from stylish dressing. Many notable gentlemen of style have been known to sport a collar pin, from Fred Astaire and Steve McQueen to Tom Ford and Daniel Craig. Its rarity is part of its appeal, as its use shows considerable sartorial savvy. If you enjoy the collar pin but prefer a less noticeable approach, put aside the more common safety pin style and try the barbell style. Whichever collar pin you prefer, make sure to pair it with a substantial tie knot for best effect....

Read More

Creative Coat Linings vs. Traditional Coat Linings

I received this question from a reader: Every once in a while, I catch a glimpse of a coat lining that’s bright and flashy instead of the traditional solid gray, brown, navy, etc. What do you recommend I line my next coat with? This is what I shared with them: Your coat’s lining doesn’t show often, but it does make an appearance now and then. That gives you a wonderful opportunity for an expression of your own personal style. You can certainly go with a traditional lining fabric—but if you prefer something bold (or even outrageous), we’re here to help! Our extensive fabric supply gives you access to lining fabrics that create a bold statement with a contrasting color, or add elegance with coordinating stripes or prints. The myriad possibilities include novelty prints, hobby- or sports-based prints, paisleys, jacquard weaves, and more....

Read More

Trimming Your Figure with Custom Clothing

Certainly, those on the thin side can wear slim-cut suits—but what about the rest of us? Many people believe that a larger figure needs a roomy suit in order to be comfortable. You might be surprised to discover that, in reality, the opposite is true: having excess fabric in your suit can make it less comfortable. Gentlemen with a more mature figure can wear slim-cut suits—if the suit is perfectly tailored. When your clothing is made from exactly the amount of fabric you need and cut exactly for how you move, it develops a degree of comfort and mobility that a lesser suit cannot duplicate. By adjusting the dimensions of the chest and skirt areas of the suit coat, we can create a slimming look without a tight, uncomfortable fit. Even a change of one-quarter inch, if taken in just the right places, can make a big difference in look and comfort. In...

Read More

Crafting Your Individual Style: A Quiet Rebellion

When you create a customized wardrobe that showcases your unique sense of style, you’re stepping away from the crowd’s choices, and charting your own course. There’s a bit of rebellion in creating something truly unique—you’re giving the subtle but unmistakable message to the world that you know your own mind, and you refuse to bend to the whims of others. Your favorite style may be one of timeless elegance, or you may choose to set trends. Traditional or edgy, demure or bold: no matter your preferences, you’re letting your own voice be heard instead of merely being an echo of others....

Read More