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Defining Different Types of Coats

Apr 20 2014

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between a blazer, sport coat, and my suit coat? This is what I shared with them:To define the different types of coats, it's easiest to look at their traditional usage. A blazer comes from navy traditions. It typically has patch pockets on the outside and metallic buttons, both on the front and on the coat sleeves. Dark colors are common, with navy blue predominating. A sport coat comes from country living in England (particularly hunting), and is often made of twilled cotton or tweed. Sport coats tend to include rustic shades of brown, but may include a variety of colors. A suit coat is made of wool and is more formal than the other two. Although naturally it matches your suit’s trousers, many suit coats can also be coordinated with other dressy trousers. Suit coats come in a variety of colors; traditional choices are...

J Kent Erickson

Shoe Sole Material: Rubber vs. Leather

Mar 10 2014

I received this question from a reader:When I’m shopping for shoes, are rubber or leather soles better? This is what I shared with them: Both leather and rubber soles have their advantages. Many gentlemen prefer the classic visual appeal of leather soles. This traditional choice offers an elegance unmatched by man-made materials. However, rubber soles are usually longer lasting, especially when worn in humid or rainy climates. When deciding which type of shoe sole material best meets your needs, you may find that neither is the clear winner. Instead, you may choose to own a pair or two of each, giving you options for different occasions and environments. Wear the leather soles in dressier occasions, and the rubber soles when you’ll be spending a larger portion of your time outside or traveling....

J Kent Erickson

How to Care for Ties

Feb 10 2014

I received this question from a reader: Do you have guidelines on how to care for ties? This is what I shared with them: Ties add a splash of color and personality to your ensemble, but are often overlooked when it comes to maintenance and storage. If you spend a little time on your ties, you’ll get a better return on your neckwear investment. Avoid stains. A vest or a tie bar can minimize the chances your tie may end up in your meal. When a stain occurs, blot it dry immediately, then dry clean if needed. Untie it. Loosening the knot then lifting the whole apparatus over your head can stretch the fabric fibers. Instead, reverse the tying procedure you used in the morning. Hang it up. Your tie will attract fewer wrinkles if it’s on a hanger in the closet than it will on the back of a chair or on a...

J Kent Erickson

Best Color Shirt for Interviews

Jan 13 2014

I received this question from a reader: What color shirt is best for job interviews? This is what I shared with them: Unless you’re applying to work as a graphic designer or other artistic talent, a job interview isn’t the place to show off every facet of your personal sense of style. Instead of wearing your most unique look, the best color shirt for interviews showcase your ability to create a professional appearance by selecting a traditional look for your interview. Your first choice for an interview shirt is standard white, followed by light blue. Save the shirts with stripes, checks, and bold colors for later. Your tie need not be limited to a “power tie,” but should be conservative in tone....

J Kent Erickson

Light Colored Suits in Winter

Dec 01 2012

I received this question from a reader: Can I wear my light colored suits during the winter? This is what I shared with them: Light-colored suits are sometimes made of lighter weight fabrics, and these will not be as warm as your darker, thicker suits. When choosing between your suits for an occasion, let the weather be your guide—wearing a suit that keeps you at a comfortable temperature is the goal. Your suit should also be comfortable, fit you perfectly, and be appropriate for the event. If you don’t plan on wearing a seasonal suit for part of the year, store your off-season suits in a protective garment bag to limit dust and lint, as well as possible discoloration on the shoulders from light damage....

J Kent Erickson

Picture Perfect Tie Dimple

Dec 01 2012

I received this question from a reader: How do I create a perfect dimple in my tie? Here's what I shared with them: It takes only a bit of dexterity and practice to create an elegant tie dimple. Create your knot as usual, but before you tighten it, place one finger into the fabric right below the knot. With your other hand, gently tighten the knot until there's a dimple in the center approximately half an inch deep and an inch long. Practice your technique a few times until the dimple is squarely in the middle of the fabric, and even on both sides. A dimple works best with wider ties, so if you're wearing a skinny tie, leave the dimple out....

J Kent Erickson

Best Way to Shine Shoes

Sep 24 2012

I received this question from a reader: What's the best way to shine shoes? This is what I shared with them: Start by removing dirt and old polish with shoe cream or cleaning fluid. Remember to scrape out the hard-to-reach spots with a soft toothbrush or a nailbrush. Next, apply a leather conditioner to moisturize the leather, then use a rag to rub in a layer or two of wax. Choose a wax or cream polish that matches your shoes or let the natural tint shine through by using a neutral-colored one. Polish the wax with a brush, then follow with a damp rag for a beautiful "spit shine" look. Between polishes, rub your shoes gently with a clean cloth or brush to maintain the shine....

J Kent Erickson

Fraying Shirt Cuffs

Jul 23 2012

I received this question from a reader: Why do my shirt cuffs keep fraying? This is what I shared with them: Fraying shirt cuffs is generally due to the shirt rubbing on something: a watch, a desk for those who spend time writing by hand, or a keyboard for those who spend time at the computer. You may want to choose slightly larger cuffs on your shirts, so that the cuff slides easily over the watch instead of getting caught on it. Even a very smooth watch can create friction that will wear on your shirt. When you write or type, lift your arm slightly, or roll your sleeves up first....

J Kent Erickson

Allowances for New Dress Shirt Shrinkage

Jun 11 2012

I received this question from a reader: How much shrinkage should I allow for when I select new dress shirts? Here's what I shared with them: As your custom tailor, naturally we allow sufficient fabric for shrinkage, so you never have to worry about ending up with a shirt that’s too small. If you still want to know the basics of shrinkage, remember that cotton fabrics will generally shrink more lengthwise (from top to bottom) than across (from side to side). Some shirts may shrink up to half an inch in length. Check that you can fit one to two fingers between your neck and the collar. This allows room for ease in wearing and for any shrinkage. Most shirts will allow plenty of length in the body of the shirt, but make sure the shirt sleeves are long enough to lose half an inch and still reach to your wrist easily....

J Kent Erickson

Shirts: Choosing the Right Color

Aug 26 2011

I received this question from a reader: How do I choose a shirt color? This is what I shared with them: Choosing a shirt is not as simple as picking your favorite color; colors communicate different things to those around you. Let’s start with the basics. Crisp, clean white shirts convey the most power and authority. Blue shirts come next, and work well with almost any suit color. Other solid colors are appropriate for all but the most formal occasions, while stripes and checks work well in most day-to-day situations. “Warm” colors such as red or yellow are more casual than “cool” colors....

J Kent Erickson