Part of the appeal of custom clothing is being able to fit a hard-to-fit physique. Whether you’re short or tall, stocky or slim, customized options can create your best possible look.
For Shorter Men
Keep the break in your trousers minimal to lengthen the front crease line. Place your suit coat buttons a little lower (two-button coats will be more flattering than three-button coats) and consider using peak lapels—the longer lines add the illusion of height. Enjoy the bolder fabrics that your taller colleagues can’t always pull off, such as glen plaid and Prince of Wales.
For Taller Men
To keep things in proportion, choose wider ties and a spread-collar shirt. Accessories such as a belt, a tie bar, or a pocket square can help break up the impression of height. Rounder toes on your shoes are helpful, along with ties with horizontal or diagonal stripes.
For Stocky Men
Unless you’re sitting down, keep your suit coat buttoned to avoid drawing attention to your center. Shirts are best kept simple and elegant, as busier prints will emphasize girth. Boxier toes on substantial shoes can keep your feet from seeming too small for your frame. Choose notched lapels instead of peak to avoid adding extra thickness to your chest.
For Slim Men
You can create the impression of greater substance without wearing oversized clothes. Instead, choose lighter colors for your suit, such as gray or blue. A thicker-gauge fabric can also add bulk, both in your suits and in your shirts. Choose plaids or checks over pinstripes, and allow your ties to add a splash of color. Thicker ties may overwhelm your frame, so choose one that looks well-proportioned.
The key to looking fantastic is, as always, a perfect custom fit, no matter your build.