Tailored Tag

CUSTOM CLOTHING: A BESPOKE EXPERIENCE

When you purchase off-the-rack clothing, you have to search almost endlessly for each piece that will work in your wardrobe. With custom clothing, your private appointment with your personal clothier lets you design just the look you want, for a wide range of items. We can design your jackets, trousers, shirts, ties, pocket squares, and more-all in one exclusive appointment. Enjoy our undivided attention and personalized advice while perusing the latest exquisite fabrics. Our goal is to make the experience of designing your wardrobe just as pleasant and comfortable as wearing custom-tailored clothing is....

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THE PROBLEM WITH SHOPPING SALES

It can be tempting to go to a clothing store and see what's on the sale racks. Saving money can be a satisfying experience-but what's the hidden cost of buying sale items? Store-bought clothing items that are on sale are often fad-inspired pieces that have faded in popularity or were produced in odd colors that the store had trouble selling. Generally, the store's sale items are not the classic pieces that will give you good service for years (if not decades). Consider the cost per wear, rather than the purchase price. An item that costs $500 that you wear twice a month for 5 years costs just over $4 for each time it's worn. Something that costs $100 saves you $400 in purchase price, but if you only wear it five times before relegating it to gather dust in the back of your closet, it costs you $20 each time it's...

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Escaping the Tyranny of the Store Buyer

Ready-to-wear clothing sellers must concentrate on the merchandise they think they can sell in a short period of time. By economic necessity, their wares must appeal to the most customers possible. Each season they buy far in advance, based on forecasts of trends and fads—and they must move that merchandise quickly to have room for the next season’s fads. Stores may stock only thin lapels one year, and only wide lapels the next. Only flat-front trousers or only pleated ones. Only summer suits or only winter wear. As your custom clothier, we believe in a wholly different approach to developing style and image. When you choose custom clothing instead of limiting your choices to those selected by store buyers, you’ll find you have a myriad of choices for styling, fabric, color, and fit. You can build a wardrobe that bucks the current trends—or anticipates the next ones. We’ll create a look...

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Trimming Your Figure with Custom Clothing

Certainly, those on the thin side can wear slim-cut suits—but what about the rest of us? Many people believe that a larger figure needs a roomy suit in order to be comfortable. You might be surprised to discover that, in reality, the opposite is true: having excess fabric in your suit can make it less comfortable. Gentlemen with a more mature figure can wear slim-cut suits—if the suit is perfectly tailored. When your clothing is made from exactly the amount of fabric you need and cut exactly for how you move, it develops a degree of comfort and mobility that a lesser suit cannot duplicate. By adjusting the dimensions of the chest and skirt areas of the suit coat, we can create a slimming look without a tight, uncomfortable fit. Even a change of one-quarter inch, if taken in just the right places, can make a big difference in look and comfort. In...

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Custom Tailoring Provides Solutions To Sleeve Length Dilemma

Sports injuries. Medical issues. Unequal muscular development in athletes. All of these can lead to a person’s arms being of different lengths. It’s a fairly common problem that most people never think about—until they find that they can’t find shirts that work. Either one sleeve is always hiding inside their coat sleeve while the other extends to the wrist, or one sleeve is bunched up at the wrist while the other sits naturally. Even though the sleeves are the same length, they look uneven when worn, if your arm lengths are not identical. Off-the-rack clothing is not designed to address this problem, leaving many gentlemen frustrated and unable to create a balanced look every day. Fortunately, the solution is easy—custom tailored clothing. The custom shirts and coats we design and build exclusively for you will fit you perfectly. We take far more measurements than a seamstress or alterations person in a clothing...

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How to Get the Most from Your Custom Clothier

You can maximize the value of your custom wardrobe by increasing the value you receive from your custom clothier. Here’s how: We have solved fitting and style problems for countless clients, so consider our recommendations when making wardrobe decisions. Of course, you make the decisions on your wardrobe, but listening to our thoughts before making those decisions can lead to a better custom wardrobe. Instead of thinking of your custom clothier as a valet who simply lays out your wardrobe, please think of us as an adviser on sartorial matters. We are pleased to offer you practical tips for improving the return on your wardrobe investment. Ready-to-wear salespeople are prone to offering flattery to convince customers that whatever they are trying on looks good on them. We will give you honest information (including accurate sizing) to guide you toward well-informed clothing decisions. Many gentlemen haven’t spent years learning the eternal principles of good style....

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Master Going Tie-less

I received this question from a reader: When I don’t wear a tie, I feel like my outfit looks incomplete. How do I master going tie-less? This is what I shared with them: When you’re skipping the tie, you’ll need to make sure your shirt is up to the task. Choose thicker fabric to ensure your shirt won’t “wilt” without a tie to stabilize it and pull it into shape. If you frequently go tie-less, consider creating a stiffer-than-usual collar for even more help with stabilization. And, of course, a shirt that fits you perfectly will always look better than one that’s merely close to fitting you and requires a tie to cover its inadequacy....

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Seams: Hand-Sewn vs. Machine-Sewn

I received this question from a reader: What’s the difference between hand-sewn and machine-sewn seams? This is what I shared with them: Hand-sewn seams are created by a single thread running through fabric like a wave. Done right, they lay smooth and do not pucker. Hand-sewn seams handle stretching well, and spring back into place after movement. Hand stitching is advantageous in curved areas like armholes, collars, and waistbands. Machine-sewn seams use two threads crossing over each other through the fabric. They are sturdy and more precise than hand-sewn seams, but the extra tension created by having two threads pulling in opposition can lead to puckers in the fabric on curves. Machine stitching is advantageous in straight-seam areas like trouser legs, where it can be more durable and cleaner than hand stitching....

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Custom Clothing: The Fit & The Fashion

Custom Clothing: The Fit & The Fashion Two roads tend to lead to custom clothing; the first is fit. Those with hard-to-fit body types find a welcome relief from the sizing constraints of off-the-rack clothing through creating their own custom fit. Even slight differences from the “average” size in any of several key fitting points can make it difficult (if not impossible) to buy ready-made clothing that fits well. For gentlemen who are wider in the neck, have a long torso, or are otherwise proportioned differently than the manufacturers’ base patterns, custom clothing is the best source for clothing that fits, looks, and feels fantastic. The second road that leads to custom clothing is fashion. There is simply no better way to create exactly the look that expresses a unique personality than custom clothing. Men with a keen sense of style often turn to custom clothing to avoid being limited to the...

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Suit Coats & Vest Lapels

I received this question from a reader: Can I wear a vest with lapels under my suit coat? This is what I shared with them: The beauty of custom clothing is being able to create your individual look—and that includes vest lapels under your suit coat. Be sure that the extra thickness of the lapels does not look overly bulky with your coat on. Remember that, with custom clothing, you always have options. You may save the vest with lapels for days that you’ll be going coatless for much of the time. If you’re unsure what look you prefer, please give us a call so we can work together to create a fantastic signature look for you....

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