Fabrics & Textiles

Falling in Love with New Fabric Options

The new fall fabrics are now available, and they include fibers with earthy, touchable appeal. The current trends are for fabrics with a “rural” or “raw” feel to the fabric finish. Look for textiles with earthy textures inspired by the natural world. These include fabrics with irregular weave patterns or multiple textures. Some options have a “grainy” feel to the fibers, which adds a rustic texture perfect for the natural changes taking place during autumn. Bamboo fabrics are gaining in prominence. These natural fibers are pliable and breathable, yet durable and long-wearing. Plaids are large-scaled, with an open feel to the spacing. Look for rustic check patterns, such as variations on Burberry-type plaids. Many fall offerings are indulging in a dusty color palette of pastels with a nature-based look. Whether you’re looking to freshen your autumn wardrobe by selecting several new ties, creating your next custom suit, or designing personalized shirts, this season’s...

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Where Do The Best Fabrics Come From?

I received this question from a reader: Where do the best fabrics come from? This is what I shared with them: Traditionally, the fabrics made in Italy are known for their quality in raw materials and workmanship. We carry many of these select Italian fabrics. We also carry fabrics made in England and other locations devoted to quality textile construction—each has been chosen to join our fabric selection based on quality of threads, dyes, and weave. High-quality fabrics last longer and wear better than those made to lower standards. Off-the-rack clothing is often designed to be worn for a year or two at most, so quality isn’t always paramount to the makers. We insist on first-class fabrics to ensure your custom clothing is wearable for years to come....

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What’s So “Super” About Super Wools?

An age-old grading system is used to ensure that the quality of wool fabric is accurately categorized—and valued. The finest worsted wools are called “super wools” or “choice wool.” Carded wools are called “woolens.” When the grading system for worsted wool began in England, it applied only to 100% pure raw wool, but now covers wool blends that incorporate other natural fibers, such as cashmere, mohair, or alpaca.  While the USDA monitors wool grading in the U.S., The British Wool Textile Export Corporation introduced a code of practice concerning the description of wool quality in the 1990s to clear up confusion in the marketplace caused by companies describing the same qualities of wool in different ways. The main benefit to consumers is consistent rating of the quality of wool fiber contained in cloths woven in the United Kingdom.  For more than a century cloth woven in the United Kingdom has been...

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Color and Lighting Conditions

We may think that a color is always the same, but colors can change drastically in different lighting conditions. At dawn and dusk, fabric colors will look warmer and richer. Light from a northern window at noon will give fabrics a cooler appearance. Artificial lighting can change colors even more. Incandescent bulbs give a pinkish cast, while fluorescent lights add green or blue. It’s useful to know how your ensemble will look in its intended setting. Blacks can take on a brown or greenish hue. Midnight blues can appear blacker than actual black fabrics. Planning in advance can allow you to optimize your color choices—especially for formalwear. If true black will turn to dark green, you may prefer to create your next tuxedo in a midnight blue. When selecting fabrics, view the swatches in the lighting types that will dominate during their use: consider indirect and direct natural light, as well as...

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What’s Great about Gabardine

Born in the middle ages and refined with current textile techniques, gabardine has come of age with surprising elegance. Originally intended for outerwear such as traveling cloaks, today gabardine is a refined, elegant fabric for a variety of purposes. In more modern times, gabardine has clothed adventurers and trendsetters as they traveled to such exotic locations as Antarctica and Mount Everest. Gabardine combines the strength and durability of a tightly-woven twill with a more supple hand than many other twills. The twisted weave that is gabardine’s signature element creates micro-ridges that allow light to almost bend around it, giving it a soft, almost luminous look. The fabric’s luxurious feel will complement the finer pieces in your wardrobe without looking overly formal. This fabric is also a fantastic choice for business-casual trousers. Gabardine’s durability stacks up well next to the twilled cotton that is today’s most common choice for casual trousers, while retaining...

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Khaki Slacks Go Custom

Khaki began as a color—the dusty shade of the Indian desert—used by the British army in the 1800s to camouflage their previously white trousers. When applied to the cotton twill “chino” military fabric, the color and the style of slacks became synonymous. Khaki slacks are considered one of the most hard-working options in casual wear, but they never have to be average. Crafting custom-fit khakis specifically to your taste and build takes the ordinary to extraordinary. We can help you design your ideal pair of workhorse slacks, whether you prefer a flat front and a trim fit or a pleated front with a full fit—or anything in between. Contact us today to create your ultimate pair of khakis....

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