Fabric Tag

Where to the best fabrics come from?

I received this question from a reader: Where do the best fabrics come from? This is what I shared with them: Traditionally, the fabrics made in Italy are known for their quality in raw materials and workmanship. We carry many of these select Italian fabrics. We also carry fabrics made in England and other locations devoted to quality textile construction—each has been chosen to join our fabric selection based on quality of threads, dyes, and weave. High-quality fabrics last longer and wear better than those made to lower standards. Off-the-rack clothing is often designed to be worn for a year or two at most, so quality isn’t always paramount to the makers. We insist on first-class fabrics to ensure your custom clothing is wearable for years to come.  ...

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Falling in Love with New Fabric Options

The new fall fabrics are now available, and they include fibers with earthy, touchable appeal. The current trends are for fabrics with a “rural” or “raw” feel to the fabric finish. Look for textiles with earthy textures inspired by the natural world. These include fabrics with irregular weave patterns or multiple textures. Some options have a “grainy” feel to the fibers, which adds a rustic texture perfect for the natural changes taking place during autumn. Bamboo fabrics are gaining in prominence. These natural fibers are pliable and breathable, yet durable and long-wearing. Plaids are large-scaled, with an open feel to the spacing. Look for rustic check patterns, such as variations on Burberry-type plaids. Many fall offerings are indulging in a dusty color palette of pastels with a nature-based look. Whether you’re looking to freshen your autumn wardrobe by selecting several new ties, creating your next custom suit, or designing personalized shirts, this season’s...

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Corduroy: Traditional yet Modern

Corduroy fabric began as the English gentleman’s country attire. It had a similar feel as velvet, but was traditionally made of cotton or cotton blends instead of the silk that went into velvet. It’s a durable, long-lasting fabric, rich with history, that’s still useful today. When you’re looking for a fresh piece in your wardrobe that still feels and looks traditional, try a custom corduroy jacket or trousers. We will ensure that they fit as comfortably as your custom suits, and you can enjoy them on occasions that don’t call for a suit. Corduroy is a great option for cooler weather and your seasonal wardrobe. Most corduroys are made in tan colors, but don’t overlook the fresh look of gray or a rich chocolate brown corduroy. Scarlet, green, or plum corduroys can make beautiful accent pieces. Typically choose fabrics with closer-set wales (ridges) for jackets and farther-set wales for trousers. Corduroy sport coats...

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Where Do The Best Fabrics Come From?

I received this question from a reader: Where do the best fabrics come from? This is what I shared with them: Traditionally, the fabrics made in Italy are known for their quality in raw materials and workmanship. We carry many of these select Italian fabrics. We also carry fabrics made in England and other locations devoted to quality textile construction—each has been chosen to join our fabric selection based on quality of threads, dyes, and weave. High-quality fabrics last longer and wear better than those made to lower standards. Off-the-rack clothing is often designed to be worn for a year or two at most, so quality isn’t always paramount to the makers. We insist on first-class fabrics to ensure your custom clothing is wearable for years to come....

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The Possibilities of Sport Jackets

Sport jackets provide an excellent opportunity to showcase your personal style. When you’re designing your next custom sport coat, take time to consider a wide range of stylistic options, and you’ll create a sport coat that you love. Custom clothing should be a joy to wear. It not only will fit perfectly but also can give you an emotional lift each time you wear it. For your next sport coat, consider light colors and bold patterns as well as the typical tans and blues. Brightening up your clothing can easily brighten up your mood. Selecting a pastel plaid fabric for the jacket makes an eye-catching statement, especially if you choose one with several colors in the plaid. Keep to colors in the same color family if you’re looking to tone down the visual effect. Sport jackets are great for weekends and events that call for style without the formality of a full suit....

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What’s So “Super” About Super Wools?

An age-old grading system is used to ensure that the quality of wool fabric is accurately categorized—and valued. The finest worsted wools are called “super wools” or “choice wool.” Carded wools are called “woolens.” When the grading system for worsted wool began in England, it applied only to 100% pure raw wool, but now covers wool blends that incorporate other natural fibers, such as cashmere, mohair, or alpaca.  While the USDA monitors wool grading in the U.S., The British Wool Textile Export Corporation introduced a code of practice concerning the description of wool quality in the 1990s to clear up confusion in the marketplace caused by companies describing the same qualities of wool in different ways. The main benefit to consumers is consistent rating of the quality of wool fiber contained in cloths woven in the United Kingdom.  For more than a century cloth woven in the United Kingdom has been...

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Color and Lighting Conditions

We may think that a color is always the same, but colors can change drastically in different lighting conditions. At dawn and dusk, fabric colors will look warmer and richer. Light from a northern window at noon will give fabrics a cooler appearance. Artificial lighting can change colors even more. Incandescent bulbs give a pinkish cast, while fluorescent lights add green or blue. It’s useful to know how your ensemble will look in its intended setting. Blacks can take on a brown or greenish hue. Midnight blues can appear blacker than actual black fabrics. Planning in advance can allow you to optimize your color choices—especially for formalwear. If true black will turn to dark green, you may prefer to create your next tuxedo in a midnight blue. When selecting fabrics, view the swatches in the lighting types that will dominate during their use: consider indirect and direct natural light, as well as...

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Fiber Choices for Socks

The type of fibers in the socks you wear can have a big difference in how comfortable you feel. The scoop on several popular fiber choices for socks: COTTON is affordable and easy to find in a wide variety of colors. Although cotton does not wick moisture away like wool or linen, it is comfortable and cushiony. Socks woven from Sea-island cotton, with its long-staple fiber, offer a soft, silky feel. WOOL is available in a variety of thicknesses, including heavier socks for warmth during cooler weather. Modern wools are itch-free and smooth, while still providing the insulation and breathability that make wool a timeless favorite. CASHMERE delivers the ultimate in sock luxury. The lightweight fibers warm without adding bulk, giving you a good fit and unsurpassed comfort. BLENDS combine the attributes of two types of fibers. Supplementing natural fibers with small amounts of spandex often gives socks better elasticity without sacrificing breathability....

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Dressing Up The Tweed Sport Coat

Tweeds hail from the leisure traditions of the English countryside, and offer you a more relaxed look than your workday suit—but that doesn’t mean your tailored tweed sport coat can’t look fantastic. Tweeds are a perfect bridge between dressy and casual options in your wardrobe: it’s all in the pairings you create. Here are a few ideas to get you started: Consider adding a light-gauge sweater under the jacket. A vest offers another great opportunity to add a splash of color without overwhelming the eye. If you’re looking for a lighter option, skip the sweater or vest, and bring in one of your more casual ties. A tweed sport coat looks great over a checked shirt with a plaid tie. Don’t forget to accessorize—a pocket square can work with a tweed jacket. Be sure to choose colors for your square that work well with the jacket. Matte fabrics will often harmonize better with...

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The Subtleties of Suede Shoes

Back in the day, suede shoes were an Elvis thing, or a fusty-college-professor thing. Suede has come a long way from being blue-or boring. Here are the three C's of selecting and maintaining your suede shoes: Color: For everyday wear, steer clear of novelty shades, and take advantage of the rich, warm tones that suede offers you to create a relaxed, yet elegant, look. Care: Use a waterproof finish and suede eraser to ensure your suede shoes look their best. Brush often. Coordination: Suede works beautifully with fall clothing, including flannel suits, tan trousers, and crisp. ...

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