Shirts Tag

Custom Guidance from Your Custom Clothier

Each gentleman has his own circumstances, goals, and individual style. Our aim, as a custom clothier, is to enable each of our clients to create a wardrobe that will work hard to help him meet his goals and express his unique taste. To accomplish that, we work hard during your consultations to ensure you consider several important factors. Throughout our conversations we will help you to discover whether you prefer Italian, English, or American style sensibilities, as that will usually inform your tailoring choices. We’ll also discuss which custom items are your current priority. For some gentlemen, it could be suits, while others need to focus on trousers, coats, shirts, or a focal point item, such as an “odd vest.” When you set your budget, we can help you consider how long each type of custom clothing tends to last, as well as how many of that item category you’ll need. We are...

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EIGHT GREAT MUST-HAVES

With a closet stocked with well-chosen staples, dressing is nearly effortless. That's why we've compiled this list of basics, to make sure you're stylish from head to toe. Loafers. Get a pair each in black and brown leather and you'll have shoes that coordinate with just about any outfit. Custom suit. If you currently plan on only one custom suit, a dark color will give you the most mix-and-match possibilities. A v-neck sweater. This layering option ensures you'll be comfortable as temperatures change. Dark blue jeans. Ensure your jeans look as elegant as possible by choosing those with a dark, uniform "wash." Custom dress shirts. A fantastic, custom-fit suit deserves several excellent custom shirts. Start with white or blue shirts, and then add in other solid colors and stripes to your taste. A blazer. Traditional navy is always a great option for your custom blazer, but depending on your preferences...

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Is it okay to roll up my shirt sleeves?

I received this question from a reader: Is it okay to roll up my shirt sleeves? This is what I shared with them: Rolling up your sleeves keeps the cuffs clean when you’re eating or washing your hands. It’s also a great way to dress down an outfit when going from an office atmosphere to after-hours social engagements. However, there’s definitely an art to it. Here are a few tips on how to roll up your sleeves yet keep your shirt looking great. It’s best to fold sleeves—don’t roll them. Make sure both sides end up even in length, and don’t roll sleeves up past your elbows. Unroll them as soon as possible to avoid excessive wrinkles. Don’t roll up sleeves when in important business meetings, when you need to look as polished as possible. Sleeves should also be worn down to the wrist when wearing a coat or vest, as well as when dressed...

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IN BLACK AND WHITE (AND GRAY)

Creating outfits from black and white pieces leads to striking ensembles. When you add shades of gray into the mix, you'll have an ensemble that is at once visually arresting and monochromatic. Combine several gray tones for a lighter look that's perfect for sunny days and social occasions. Pair your custom gray suit with pastel shirts, or wear it with your all-purpose white and blue shirts. Bring in black and your darker grays for more formal occasions. Crisp whites or subtle off-whites like cream or ivory look fantastic with black. By combining your favorite black, white, and gray pieces, you have a myriad of wardrobe options that always coordinate-helping you look great without spending time searching for just the right shades that will work well together....

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ESSENTIALLY SPRING

This spring, you can create a fresh, breezy look without losing your individual style. Here are a few quick seasonal changes that will breathe fresh air into your wardrobe for the spring. Try loafers instead of lace-ups for casual flair. Wear a woven canvas or light brown leather belt instead of the dark leather belts you've depended on all winter. Bring out your b­righter fabrics, whether in ties, shirts, or socks. Supplement your oxford shirts with­ equally well-tailored custom shirts made from any of our beautiful, open-weave fabrics for the comfort of breathability-without looking sloppy. Indulge in shirts built of lightweight cotton, linen, or blends of the two. Enjoy a pair of custom-tailored tan trousers, whether as part of a spring/summer suit or as a stand-alone item. Consider a custom unlined or partially lined suit coat or sport coat, for occasions when you need the sense of presence a coat...

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Three Keys To Designing The White Oxford Button-Down Shirt

The reliable white oxford button-down is a workhorse of a shirt. You can confidently wear it during graduation ceremonies, weddings, funerals, some interviews, and at just about any day at work. Your custom oxford looks deliciously crisp when ironed, yet warm and casual when un-tucked. As a custom clothier, here are three key steps we take to ensure each custom button-down oxford we build is truly outstanding. First, we select a fabric with a firm, tight weave. This density of thread makes your shirt last longer and feel smoother than clothing constructed from a lesser fabric. Second, we insist on using only high-quality buttons. For most gentlemen, the ideal buttons are forgettable-without looking cheap. We have an excellent selection for you to choose from, including traditional mother-of-pearl. Our third step is to customize your collar roll, which ensures your collar arches gracefully from your neck to the buttons instead of clinging tightly to...

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The Guide to Cufflinks

The T-bar is the most widely available type of cufflink. The hinged bar swings shut to let you push it through a buttonhole and then opens to keep the cufflink in place. It easy to put on and take off, and comes with just about any decoration imaginable. However, the decoration is only on one end of the cufflink, dressing only one side of your cuff. The fixed bar gives a decorative element on both ends of the cufflink, so your cufflink is dressy from any viewing angle. Because there are no moving parts, fixed bar cufflinks tend to be quite long lasting. Hold the larger end and press the smaller end through each buttonhole. The chain cufflink has two decorative elements connected by a chain instead of a solid bar. Grasp the smaller end and press it through each set of buttonholes one at a time. Once through, simply rotate it...

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Types of Shirt Plackets

Designing your personal style means paying attention to details. Have you considered the style potential of choosing between the various options for shirt placket design? (That's the strip of fabric that holds the buttons.) Front placket-found in the vast majority of dress shirts. Always a good option for business attire, but its ubiquity means it lacks individuality. No front placket-also called a French front, this placket has no visual stitching alongside the row of buttons, so it creates clean lines but can be trickier to iron. Covered placket-commonly called a fly front, the covered placket has an additional layer of fabric covering the buttons. It's sometimes found in tuxedo shirts and other very dressy clothing. Tuxedo front-looks similar to the French front but differs in that the top four buttons are removable, allowing you to replace the buttons with tuxedo studs. This placket is best used only with tuxedo shirts. The...

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QUEUE UP FOR COOL BLUES

Blue is one of the most dependable colors for your custom clothing. Navy blazers and suit coats make your favorite white shirts look fantastically crisp. They're also great paired with shirts in pastels of any shade, or a soft gray. If you're looking to make a coat or full suit in a lighter shade of blue, consider a blue-gray tone for an elegant change of pace. Dress shirts made in a rich shade of blue are a perfect partner for tan or gray trousers or crisp jeans. Make sure the jeans and shirt are not so close in color that they compete visually. When dressing in blues, add in an accent piece for a splash of color, whether it's a tie, a pocket square, a tie clip, or cuff links....

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Raising the Bar: The Collar Pin

You already know that paying attention to your accessories sets you apart from the crowd. One accoutrement that quickly gives an air of elegance to an ensemble is a collar pin. This refined tool gives the knot in your tie more visual importance and stability. It’s perfect for days when you want to look your best—and want the confidence that comes from stylish dressing. Many notable gentlemen of style have been known to sport a collar pin, from Fred Astaire and Steve McQueen to Tom Ford and Daniel Craig. Its rarity is part of its appeal, as its use shows considerable sartorial savvy. If you enjoy the collar pin but prefer a less noticeable approach, put aside the more common safety pin style and try the barbell style. Whichever collar pin you prefer, make sure to pair it with a substantial tie knot for best effect....

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