Suits Tag

Custom Guidance from Your Custom Clothier

Each gentleman has his own circumstances, goals, and individual style. Our aim, as a custom clothier, is to enable each of our clients to create a wardrobe that will work hard to help him meet his goals and express his unique taste. To accomplish that, we work hard during your consultations to ensure you consider several important factors. Throughout our conversations we will help you to discover whether you prefer Italian, English, or American style sensibilities, as that will usually inform your tailoring choices. We’ll also discuss which custom items are your current priority. For some gentlemen, it could be suits, while others need to focus on trousers, coats, shirts, or a focal point item, such as an “odd vest.” When you set your budget, we can help you consider how long each type of custom clothing tends to last, as well as how many of that item category you’ll need. We are...

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EIGHT GREAT MUST-HAVES

With a closet stocked with well-chosen staples, dressing is nearly effortless. That's why we've compiled this list of basics, to make sure you're stylish from head to toe. Loafers. Get a pair each in black and brown leather and you'll have shoes that coordinate with just about any outfit. Custom suit. If you currently plan on only one custom suit, a dark color will give you the most mix-and-match possibilities. A v-neck sweater. This layering option ensures you'll be comfortable as temperatures change. Dark blue jeans. Ensure your jeans look as elegant as possible by choosing those with a dark, uniform "wash." Custom dress shirts. A fantastic, custom-fit suit deserves several excellent custom shirts. Start with white or blue shirts, and then add in other solid colors and stripes to your taste. A blazer. Traditional navy is always a great option for your custom blazer, but depending on your preferences...

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Play To Your Strong Suit

When you play to win in a card game, you use the cards in your strongest suit. When you play to win in business, you wear the strongest suit in your wardrobe. Custom clothing gives you the ability to design a suit that plays to your strengths and minimizes any irregularities in shape or proportion. You have the power to create exactly the image you desire, and can build your clothing to meet all your individual requirements, even if you are not proportioned like the average gentleman. Whether you're aiming for an approachable, casual suit, or a somber, more formal suit, custom clothing gives you the powerful image you need-because you always play to win....

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Mastering Cocktail Attire

You’ve been invited to a wedding, and the invitation says “cocktail attire.” Unfortunately for your tan, the wedding isn’t on a beach in Florida or California. It’s an evening event held indoors, and you’ve decided to create a fantastic ensemble that perfectly epitomizes cocktail attire. Where to start? You’re not going to start by wearing a tuxedo. Unless the invitation says “black tie optional,” your tux will be too much—and choosing to wear it means you risk outshining the couple on their special day. Go with a dark, solid-colored suit and crisp white shirt. (A wedding is the perfect opportunity to get your next custom shirt made, so it’ll be sparkling white.) Choose a bowtie if it won’t overshadow the wedding party, or turn to a traditional tie. A solid-colored silk tie will look both festive and elegant. If you prefer, wear a tie with some texture for visual interest. Your pocket square will...

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Trimming Your Figure with Custom Clothing

Certainly, those on the thin side can wear slim-cut suits—but what about the rest of us? Many people believe that a larger figure needs a roomy suit in order to be comfortable. You might be surprised to discover that, in reality, the opposite is true: having excess fabric in your suit can make it less comfortable. Gentlemen with a more mature figure can wear slim-cut suits—if the suit is perfectly tailored. When your clothing is made from exactly the amount of fabric you need and cut exactly for how you move, it develops a degree of comfort and mobility that a lesser suit cannot duplicate. By adjusting the dimensions of the chest and skirt areas of the suit coat, we can create a slimming look without a tight, uncomfortable fit. Even a change of one-quarter inch, if taken in just the right places, can make a big difference in look and comfort. In...

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All About Stripes

Stripes can be a great way to bring interest into an outfit—as long as the stripes are chosen with care. To incorporate stripes into an ensemble that that works for you, consider the following points: Vertical for business. Rugby and polo shirts often use horizontal stripes, but in business clothing, vertical stripes are more appropriate. Thin is in. While not all stripes need be pinstripe width, choosing thin stripes over thick, blocky stripes will generally look more refined. Variation works. Your stripes need not be uniform in either color or width. A shirt or tie with a variety of multi-width and multi-colored stripes can be quite pleasing to the eye. Combinations matter. If you’re creating an attention-drawing outfit, colors that sit opposite each other on a color wheel are highly effective. If you’re crafting an elegant business ensemble, your colors should be closer to each other on the wheel. Subtlety in a pin. Your pinstriped...

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Suit Coat: Bottom Button Rule

I received this question from a reader: Why is the bottom button of my suit coat supposed to be left undone? This is what I shared with them: It may seem like the kind of rule that sprang from a long-standing convention of style whose origins and rationale have been largely forgotten today, such as the stripe on tuxedo trousers or the band on a fedora, but that’s not the case here. The lowest (bottom button) on a two- or three-button suit coat is generally left unbuttoned for functional reasons: to allow your comfort when you sit, to avoid bunching up when you move your arms, and to accommodate any girth that may have accumulated since your youth. Alternately, many coats are designed with a single decorative button. These are to be worn open—buttoning the coat could pull and misshape the fabric.  ...

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Suits: To Press or Steam

I received this question from a reader: Should I press or steam my suit? Or should I just take it to the cleaners? This is what I shared with them: Steaming is far gentler on your suit than too-frequent dry cleanings and the high-temperature commercial press. Steam it lightly just before wearing, instead of immediately after wearing it. This will allow any moisture to dry naturally and remove any wrinkles from storage. Your dress shirts should be pressed instead of steamed to smooth the fabric and give it a crisp look....

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Building Your Power Suit

Looking for those essential suit details that create a strong, professional impression? Here’s how to build the basics of a power suit. Combine these components when you want a suit that creates an image of strength every time you wear it. Start with dark, traditional fabric in navy or gray. Add chalk stripes or pinstripes to the weave. For a personalized touch, consider peak lapels over notched lapels, and make sure the shoulders are strong and perfectly placed. Many power suits successfully use two-button or three-button coats, but you may want to consider a double-breasted coat. A vest also reinforces the strength of the image. A double-breasted coat with a vest underneath may not be appropriate for every occasion, but the combination is undeniable in its impact. Once you’ve chosen the basics, turn your attention to the cut of the suit. The fit is of utmost importance—no one looks powerful in poorly fitting...

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Light Colored Suits in Winter

I received this question from a reader: Can I wear my light colored suits during the winter? This is what I shared with them: Light-colored suits are sometimes made of lighter weight fabrics, and these will not be as warm as your darker, thicker suits. When choosing between your suits for an occasion, let the weather be your guide—wearing a suit that keeps you at a comfortable temperature is the goal. Your suit should also be comfortable, fit you perfectly, and be appropriate for the event. If you don’t plan on wearing a seasonal suit for part of the year, store your off-season suits in a protective garment bag to limit dust and lint, as well as possible discoloration on the shoulders from light damage....

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