Textile Tag

Where to the best fabrics come from?

I received this question from a reader: Where do the best fabrics come from? This is what I shared with them: Traditionally, the fabrics made in Italy are known for their quality in raw materials and workmanship. We carry many of these select Italian fabrics. We also carry fabrics made in England and other locations devoted to quality textile construction—each has been chosen to join our fabric selection based on quality of threads, dyes, and weave. High-quality fabrics last longer and wear better than those made to lower standards. Off-the-rack clothing is often designed to be worn for a year or two at most, so quality isn’t always paramount to the makers. We insist on first-class fabrics to ensure your custom clothing is wearable for years to come.  ...

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Falling in Love with New Fabric Options

The new fall fabrics are now available, and they include fibers with earthy, touchable appeal. The current trends are for fabrics with a “rural” or “raw” feel to the fabric finish. Look for textiles with earthy textures inspired by the natural world. These include fabrics with irregular weave patterns or multiple textures. Some options have a “grainy” feel to the fibers, which adds a rustic texture perfect for the natural changes taking place during autumn. Bamboo fabrics are gaining in prominence. These natural fibers are pliable and breathable, yet durable and long-wearing. Plaids are large-scaled, with an open feel to the spacing. Look for rustic check patterns, such as variations on Burberry-type plaids. Many fall offerings are indulging in a dusty color palette of pastels with a nature-based look. Whether you’re looking to freshen your autumn wardrobe by selecting several new ties, creating your next custom suit, or designing personalized shirts, this season’s...

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What’s So “Super” About Super Wools?

An age-old grading system is used to ensure that the quality of wool fabric is accurately categorized—and valued. The finest worsted wools are called “super wools” or “choice wool.” Carded wools are called “woolens.” When the grading system for worsted wool began in England, it applied only to 100% pure raw wool, but now covers wool blends that incorporate other natural fibers, such as cashmere, mohair, or alpaca.  While the USDA monitors wool grading in the U.S., The British Wool Textile Export Corporation introduced a code of practice concerning the description of wool quality in the 1990s to clear up confusion in the marketplace caused by companies describing the same qualities of wool in different ways. The main benefit to consumers is consistent rating of the quality of wool fiber contained in cloths woven in the United Kingdom.  For more than a century cloth woven in the United Kingdom has been...

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What’s Great about Gabardine

Born in the middle ages and refined with current textile techniques, gabardine has come of age with surprising elegance. Originally intended for outerwear such as traveling cloaks, today gabardine is a refined, elegant fabric for a variety of purposes. In more modern times, gabardine has clothed adventurers and trendsetters as they traveled to such exotic locations as Antarctica and Mount Everest. Gabardine combines the strength and durability of a tightly-woven twill with a more supple hand than many other twills. The twisted weave that is gabardine’s signature element creates micro-ridges that allow light to almost bend around it, giving it a soft, almost luminous look. The fabric’s luxurious feel will complement the finer pieces in your wardrobe without looking overly formal. This fabric is also a fantastic choice for business-casual trousers. Gabardine’s durability stacks up well next to the twilled cotton that is today’s most common choice for casual trousers, while retaining...

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Fiber Choices for Socks

The type of fibers in the socks you wear can have a big difference in how comfortable you feel. The scoop on several popular fiber choices for socks: COTTON is affordable and easy to find in a wide variety of colors. Although cotton does not wick moisture away like wool or linen, it is comfortable and cushiony. Socks woven from Sea-island cotton, with its long-staple fiber, offer a soft, silky feel. WOOL is available in a variety of thicknesses, including heavier socks for warmth during cooler weather. Modern wools are itch-free and smooth, while still providing the insulation and breathability that make wool a timeless favorite. CASHMERE delivers the ultimate in sock luxury. The lightweight fibers warm without adding bulk, giving you a good fit and unsurpassed comfort. BLENDS combine the attributes of two types of fibers. Supplementing natural fibers with small amounts of spandex often gives socks better elasticity without sacrificing breathability....

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Dressing Up The Tweed Sport Coat

Tweeds hail from the leisure traditions of the English countryside, and offer you a more relaxed look than your workday suit—but that doesn’t mean your tailored tweed sport coat can’t look fantastic. Tweeds are a perfect bridge between dressy and casual options in your wardrobe: it’s all in the pairings you create. Here are a few ideas to get you started: Consider adding a light-gauge sweater under the jacket. A vest offers another great opportunity to add a splash of color without overwhelming the eye. If you’re looking for a lighter option, skip the sweater or vest, and bring in one of your more casual ties. A tweed sport coat looks great over a checked shirt with a plaid tie. Don’t forget to accessorize—a pocket square can work with a tweed jacket. Be sure to choose colors for your square that work well with the jacket. Matte fabrics will often harmonize better with...

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The Subtleties of Suede Shoes

Back in the day, suede shoes were an Elvis thing, or a fusty-college-professor thing. Suede has come a long way from being blue-or boring. Here are the three C's of selecting and maintaining your suede shoes: Color: For everyday wear, steer clear of novelty shades, and take advantage of the rich, warm tones that suede offers you to create a relaxed, yet elegant, look. Care: Use a waterproof finish and suede eraser to ensure your suede shoes look their best. Brush often. Coordination: Suede works beautifully with fall clothing, including flannel suits, tan trousers, and crisp. ...

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Suiting Fabrics For Fall 2012: Vintage Look, Modern Fabrics

This fall, look for suiting fabrics that call to mind the traditional textiles of yesteryear, with modern twists. The updated offerings combine the durability of time-honored autumn clothing with fresh innovations that work in contemporary urban life. Heritage fabrics, such as twills and tweeds, speak of a refined country past. This year, many textile mills are bringing back those rugged suiting fabrics and updating them for modern gentlemen. Many designers are combining the strength of classic weaves with irregular finishes and varying yarn types and weights to bring a fresh look to fall suits. Varying the yarn types and thicknesses creates irregular surfaces that add visual interest. The update to fall fabrics isn't limited to the yarns. Traditional herringbone and tweed weaves are changing scale, offering a greater variety of print sizes than seen earlier, while remaining true to the classic autumn browns, russets, creams, and tans. Mills are also creating new fabric...

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Tie Quality

Ties add more than a splash of color to your work attire - the quality of your tie contributes to your image as well. The next time you're selecting new ties for your wardrobe, make sure they are of long lasting, high-quality workmanship. When measuring tie quality the first consideration is the "hand" or feel of the tie. Check that the fabric feels pleasant to the touch. A scratchy or stiff tie is likely to be of lower-quality fabric than one that simply feels luxuriant. This "touch test" applies equally well to thick and thin fabrics. Next, check the manufacture's tag to see what type of fabric you're holding. Silk or wool ties are generally preferable to synthetics. The natural elasticity of these fibers will stretch better around the neck, leading to a longer useful life in your wardrobe. Once you've approved the feel and fabric of the tie, check the details. Finer...

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