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Mastering Cocktail Attire

You’ve been invited to a wedding, and the invitation says “cocktail attire.” Unfortunately for your tan, the wedding isn’t on a beach in Florida or California. It’s an evening event held indoors, and you’ve decided to create a fantastic ensemble that perfectly epitomizes cocktail attire. Where to start? You’re not going to start by wearing a tuxedo. Unless the invitation says “black tie optional,” your tux will be too much—and choosing to wear it means you risk outshining the couple on their special day. Go with a dark, solid-colored suit and crisp white shirt. (A wedding is the perfect opportunity to get your next custom shirt made, so it’ll be sparkling white.) Choose a bowtie if it won’t overshadow the wedding party, or turn to a traditional tie. A solid-colored silk tie will look both festive and elegant. If you prefer, wear a tie with some texture for visual interest. Your pocket square will...

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Creating the Perfect Break

You know trousers should have a single break at the ankle for best effect, and that having the hems either too long or too short changes how the fabric breaks. Did you know that the width of your trousers plays a part as well? When we design your custom-fitted trousers, we don’t simply take measurements and start cutting your chosen fabric. Before we ever apply shears to cloth, a sophisticated pattern process is used to ensure all aspects of the trousers are proportioned correctly. Our goal is to craft clothing that looks fantastic, hangs beautifully, and moves like a second skin....

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Summer Ensembles

Many men use warmer weather as an excuse to relax their dress standards. Set yourself above the pack by choosing summer-appropriate clothing that’s comfortable in the heat yet maintains your style. Here are a few options to consider as you create your summer ensemble. Summer suit basics: Light-colored fabrics will deflect more of the sun’s heat and light. Lightweight fabrics, including seersucker, high-quality tropical-weight wool, or linen, allow greater air movement than densely woven fabrics. Consider unlined (or partially lined) coats and jackets for summer use. Minimizing the thickness of your coat allows you to keep your cool without losing your style. Summer shoes: Lightweight suedes, slip-ons, boat shoes, or even canvas shoes can be great options for elegance during warmer weather. Avoid wearing athletic shoes unless you’re performing athletic exercises. Summer socks: Your socks protect your feet from chafing and reduce odors, so don’t skip them. If you prefer the sockless look,...

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How to Iron a Tie

I received this question from a reader: Can I iron my tie? It seems to have permanent wrinkles, but I don’t want to take it to the cleaners. This is what I shared with them: You can certainly use an iron to remove wrinkles and restore a fresh look to your ties—but not by pressing them. Here’s how: Turn the iron on high and select the steam setting. Hold the iron about one inch over the tie and let the steam sink into the tie. Move the iron back and forth slowly above the tie’s surface. This will release wrinkles without damaging the delicate fabric of your tie....

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How to Get the Most from Your Custom Clothier

You can maximize the value of your custom wardrobe by increasing the value you receive from your custom clothier. Here’s how: We have solved fitting and style problems for countless clients, so consider our recommendations when making wardrobe decisions. Of course, you make the decisions on your wardrobe, but listening to our thoughts before making those decisions can lead to a better custom wardrobe. Instead of thinking of your custom clothier as a valet who simply lays out your wardrobe, please think of us as an adviser on sartorial matters. We are pleased to offer you practical tips for improving the return on your wardrobe investment. Ready-to-wear salespeople are prone to offering flattery to convince customers that whatever they are trying on looks good on them. We will give you honest information (including accurate sizing) to guide you toward well-informed clothing decisions. Many gentlemen haven’t spent years learning the eternal principles of good style....

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Crafting Your Individual Style: A Quiet Rebellion

When you create a customized wardrobe that showcases your unique sense of style, you’re stepping away from the crowd’s choices, and charting your own course. There’s a bit of rebellion in creating something truly unique—you’re giving the subtle but unmistakable message to the world that you know your own mind, and you refuse to bend to the whims of others. Your favorite style may be one of timeless elegance, or you may choose to set trends. Traditional or edgy, demure or bold: no matter your preferences, you’re letting your own voice be heard instead of merely being an echo of others....

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Master Going Tie-less

I received this question from a reader: When I don’t wear a tie, I feel like my outfit looks incomplete. How do I master going tie-less? This is what I shared with them: When you’re skipping the tie, you’ll need to make sure your shirt is up to the task. Choose thicker fabric to ensure your shirt won’t “wilt” without a tie to stabilize it and pull it into shape. If you frequently go tie-less, consider creating a stiffer-than-usual collar for even more help with stabilization. And, of course, a shirt that fits you perfectly will always look better than one that’s merely close to fitting you and requires a tie to cover its inadequacy....

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How to Choose Cuff Links

I received this question from a reader: How do I choose cuff links? This is what I shared with them: There are several good approaches to choosing cuff links. You may want to wear cuff links that carry personal meaning, such as an heirloom set or gift from a loved one. Your cuff links can also show support of a group you value, such as your political affiliation, your alma mater, or a philanthropic cause you support. Or, you may choose cuff links as a tribute to your culture or geographical region. Ideally, the best cuff links have visual appeal on both sides, instead of having one decorative side and one plain side. However, a fantastic design may be worth having a standard swivel on the back side....

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How to Store a Tie

Your holiday or seasonal neckwear needs a safe place to rest until its moment to shine arrives. Instead of letting occasional-use ties collect dust or fade by languishing near your everyday ties, treat them right by storing them wisely. Fold the tie in half lengthwise. Roll it up smoothly from the folded end to the point. Be careful your roll is neither too tight, nor too loose. Store the tie in a shallow drawer. Now it’ll be in excellent condition when its day to shine arrives....

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Achieving the Lived-in Look

While a crisp, clean look is appealing, there are times when you don’t want to look too pressed, too starched, too new. Especially in your custom casual clothing, you may want to create a more lived-in look than your dressier wardrobe pieces offer—without sacrificing on style or fit. Your expertly crafted customwear will look—and feel—as comfortable and familiar as your long-beloved favorites. Your color choices can also help create a more relaxed look. Choose muted earth tones instead of bright, crisp colors. Mossy greens, camel brown, and heathered colors are good options when crafting that subtle lived-in look. Low-contrast plaids and stripes look more relaxed than contrasting colors. Denim is a perennial favorite for crafting the lived-in look. Its color intensity varies sharply with wear, yet denim offers long-lasting durability. Pairing a custom-made shirt in an earth tone with a well-fitting pair of denim jeans instantly gives you an appealing ensemble. Remember that...

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