Garments & Clothing

Pitti Uomo Spring 2014 Lineup

We took a sneak peek at the reports from the Pitti Uomo trade show’s Spring 2014 lineup in Florence, Italy, and found a few trends that deserve a look. Spring themes are nostalgic this year, with multiple references to turn-of-the-century (19th century, that is) ideas of outdoor adventure, including classic items reminiscent of African safari-wear. Fabric choices are mixing, with linens being paired with more casual fabrics for an air of comfortable elegance. Seasonal colors to watch are those based on natural—but brilliant—hues this season, including lush, verdant greens and deep-water blues with fiery red accents....

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Building Your Power Suit

Looking for those essential suit details that create a strong, professional impression? Here’s how to build the basics of a power suit. Combine these components when you want a suit that creates an image of strength every time you wear it. Start with dark, traditional fabric in navy or gray. Add chalk stripes or pinstripes to the weave. For a personalized touch, consider peak lapels over notched lapels, and make sure the shoulders are strong and perfectly placed. Many power suits successfully use two-button or three-button coats, but you may want to consider a double-breasted coat. A vest also reinforces the strength of the image. A double-breasted coat with a vest underneath may not be appropriate for every occasion, but the combination is undeniable in its impact. Once you’ve chosen the basics, turn your attention to the cut of the suit. The fit is of utmost importance—no one looks powerful in poorly fitting...

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Dressing Up The Tweed Sport Coat

Tweeds hail from the leisure traditions of the English countryside, and offer you a more relaxed look than your workday suit—but that doesn’t mean your tailored tweed sport coat can’t look fantastic. Tweeds are a perfect bridge between dressy and casual options in your wardrobe: it’s all in the pairings you create. Here are a few ideas to get you started: Consider adding a light-gauge sweater under the jacket. A vest offers another great opportunity to add a splash of color without overwhelming the eye. If you’re looking for a lighter option, skip the sweater or vest, and bring in one of your more casual ties. A tweed sport coat looks great over a checked shirt with a plaid tie. Don’t forget to accessorize—a pocket square can work with a tweed jacket. Be sure to choose colors for your square that work well with the jacket. Matte fabrics will often harmonize better with...

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Choosing Shirt Collars

The best type of collar for you is the collar that creates a flattering, powerful look-and that look depends on many factors, including your physical build, the occasion, and your personality. Here are a few common styles to consider when choosing shirt collars for your custom shirts: Straight collar. Thinner ties are at home with a straight collar. The straight collar is the most prevalent choice in menswear, as its simplicity creates elegance and professionalism without calling attention to itself. Button-down collar. This collar is the most casual choice for your shirts, and can be easily worn with a sweater or sport coat. Avoid wearing a button-down collar with a double-breasted suit. Tab collar. A tab collar not only keeps the points of the collar from moving out of position, it pushes the tie knot out slightly, giving it an appealing shape and prominence. Spread collar. If you prefer thick ties with a substantial...

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Sophisticated Sportswear

Today’s casual business clothing is not limited to the traditional dark slacks or khakis with sport coat or blazer. Current options include sophisticated sportswear that maintains your individual style while allowing you to dress down. First, consider pairing a custom sport shirt with a cashmere or merino sweater. High-quality fabrics and fibers offer an undeniably classy look and feel to your clothing, including your sportswear. If the weather requires outerwear, a tailored casual sport jacket crafted from a heavier fabric can offer you a great-fitting outer layer. This approach works well with traditional tweed fabrics, giving you both a timeless appeal and a custom fit in your casual outerwear. Next, bring in a pair of tailored flannel or twill trousers to give you perfect comfort and style throughout the day without the informality of jeans. Custom-made trousers can be crafted to your exact specifications and taste. Finally, select high-performing accessories that coordinate with your...

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All About Trousers

Tell people about your slacks, and they'll figure you're fairly casual. Tell them about your pants, and they'll figure you're indifferent. Tell people about your trousers, and they'll know you've got style. Your trousers should rest comfortably on the hips, neither rising so high that they cover the abdomen nor sitting so low that they need to be cinched tight to stay on. Secure them either with the aid of a belt or suspenders (you can call them braces). Braces ensure your trousers stay in place when you switch between sitting and standing. If you opt for braces, choose a set that attaches to the trousers with buttons rather than metal clips. Using a belt offers a clean, crisp look. The belt may need to occasionally be lifted when your trousers have settled too low, but keeps a lower visual profile than braces. Your individual style should determine whether your custom trousers use a...

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Custom-Tailored Tuxedo: Rich Tradition, Modern Elegance

The tuxedo we all know and love just turned 150 years old. Designed as a short dinner jacket, the tuxedo was born in the era of smoking jackets and top hats-but unlike its contemporaries, the tuxedo's place in modern society remains undiminished. Even in our far more casual, modern world, elegant events still call for the stylish grace of the tuxedo. Wearing your custom-tailored tuxedo allows you to bring your unique sense of style to your formalwear-and helps make sure you look fantastic during formal occasions. Although most men do not wear a tuxedo as frequently as a business suit, even a few formal occasions can warrant investing in a custom tailored tuxedo. When designing your tuxedo, consider: Lapels- Peak lapels are classic on a tuxedo. Notched collars are less dressy than peak lapels. A satin shawl collar brings added shine to the ensemble. Tie-Wear a bow tie with...

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Suiting Fabrics For Fall 2012: Vintage Look, Modern Fabrics

This fall, look for suiting fabrics that call to mind the traditional textiles of yesteryear, with modern twists. The updated offerings combine the durability of time-honored autumn clothing with fresh innovations that work in contemporary urban life. Heritage fabrics, such as twills and tweeds, speak of a refined country past. This year, many textile mills are bringing back those rugged suiting fabrics and updating them for modern gentlemen. Many designers are combining the strength of classic weaves with irregular finishes and varying yarn types and weights to bring a fresh look to fall suits. Varying the yarn types and thicknesses creates irregular surfaces that add visual interest. The update to fall fabrics isn't limited to the yarns. Traditional herringbone and tweed weaves are changing scale, offering a greater variety of print sizes than seen earlier, while remaining true to the classic autumn browns, russets, creams, and tans. Mills are also creating new fabric...

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Ties For Spread Collars

Many gentlemen prefer to wear spread collars on their dress shirts. The wide angles of a spread collar can create a masterful, mature look. However, because of its width, a spread collar also creates a wide space at your neck, leaving some ties looking insufficient. You can create pleasing proportions through your choice of fabric and knot. Choosing a thicker fabric will help your tie take up more space. A wider tie will also help add bulk to the knot. The knot itself should likewise be substantial, so try a Windsor or half-Windsor knot rather than the more common four-in-hand. The wider, fuller symmetrical knot more perfectly fills the space of a spread collar with well-proportioned harmony. When well balanced with an appropriate tie, a spread collar creates a strong, confident look like no other....

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Summer Fabrics for 2012

Reinvigorate your summer wardrobe with an infusion of updated dress shirts. The fresh colors, textures, and patterns for 2012 offer your summer suit a wide array of appealing options and looks. Shades of summer: Let your everyday white or blue dress shirts take a backseat this season to shirts that simmer with summer color. Try a pale violet or lime green to add pizzazz to your image. Just be sure to wear a toned-down tie, to avoid overwhelming your outfit with color. Get texturized: Your shirt’s texture adds not only to its comfort and durability, but also to its eye appeal. Look for summer shirts that create a great feel, or “hand,” through the variations in the weave that add visual depth to the fabric. Fine patterns: Summer patterned shirt fabrics are going subtle this year. Look for mini-checks or fine stripes to add interest to your seasonal dress shirts. You can keep...

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